Hello again,
We spent a long weekend in Amsterdam at the beginning of the month. The reason for us going was Lesley’s recent promotion. Specifically, EY was putting on a multi-day training and networking extravaganza just outside of the city for all the new Managers, starting on the Sunday afternoon.
Instead of flying there, Tim dug up some information online about getting to Amsterdam by overnight ferry. In the end this worked out perfectly, being cheaper, better for the environment and more relaxing. From Harwich International (about an hour north of London by train) we boarded the cruiser (Stena Line), and after a beer at the bar retired to our private cabin for a good night’s sleep. We were woken next morning at 6:30 (5:30 UK time) by the sound of Bobby McFerrin’s “Don’t Worry Be Happy” being played over the intercom. This was our cue to shower and head down to the buffet breakfast. It was then straight onto another train before arriving in the centre of Amsterdam by around 9:30, ready to explore.
We joined a walking tour later that morning and learnt a bit about Amsterdam’s history and culture. Amsterdam is a relatively young city by European standards (about 800 years) – it was built on swampland by the river Amstel. Residential buildings still tend to shift and sag – corner houses act as bookends to those in the middle. The buildings also tilt forward deliberately, so that furniture can be hoisted up the front and into windows without scuffing the brickwork.
For a lot of travellers two things are synonymous with Amsterdam – a liberal drug policy and a regulated sex industry, most potently combined in the city’s famous Red Light District – which is included on most tours and has many “interesting” establishments – such as this classy venue (sarcasm intended).
Our tour guide explained that the Red Light district was established in times passed to meet the needs of sailors coming in on trade vessels – Amsterdam was one of the most important ports in the world in the “Dutch Golden Age” (17th century). The district, centrally located, acted as a catchment area, stopping the debauchery spreading to other parts of Amsterdam. Over the years the clientele has changed but the logic still holds. We passed down one alley with glass doors on either side – behind each door there was a licensed sex worker trying to win business. This was at lunch time – so much for “ladies of the night”. There were also loads of “coffee shops” and outlets selling marijuana to tourists (the locals in general aren’t interested).
What did we make of it all? Well we think the drug and sex industry policies are fairly sensible, but because they are still a relative novelty, Amsterdam gets more than its fair share of visitors who intend on taking full advantage. This isn’t conducive to good taste – the coffee shops in particular had all the charm of smoking rooms in a budget airport. The upshot is as you would expect – pretty gross – and more of a blight on the city than an asset in our opinion.
Anyway, once outside of the Red Light district, you can experience a different and more attractive side of the city. For us the best part of Amsterdam was wandering around the canals in the sunshine, some of which were undeniably quite pretty…but still not really holding a candle to those in Venice.
Continuing the boat theme, we actually stayed on a hostel boat for our two nights there. It was well located and substantially cheaper than Amsterdam landlubber options. The rooms were tiny, with only enough space for one person to stand and a couple of bunks, but they got the job done. Here is a pic of Lesley soaking up the sun next to the boat (we were lucky with the weather).
On Sunday morning Tim was up bright and early to go and catch a bus back to London. It was much cheaper than flying or rail, but did mean about 12 hours on the road. Tim got to see places like Rotterdam on the way home, and confirm that he never needs to visit them. Lesley’s conference started later that day and by all accounts she learnt a lot and came back ready to manage a flock of underlings.
Our next trip will be to Prague in a week. We expect it to be cold. Good thing we have a trip back to Australia in a few weeks time to thaw out – we’re both counting down to it.
TL
timandlesley 